Hello,[br]I have a cheap Epiphone Les Paul special in black that I got like 20 years ago. I’m looking to repaint and upgrade the hardware.
I’m not so handy so in my research I am seeing that I can sand it with 800 grit sandpaper. Would I be sanding it all the way to the wood or just till the finish is dull?
The new color I’d like to repaint it is TV yellow. [br][br]Thank for the advice.
Hi Frank
I am going through a project myself and am no expert in painting. However, Jeff was good enough to share a link in my post you may find helpful.
Good luck, and it would be great if you would post some pics!
This year the diet is definitely gonna stick!
Cutting back.
Depends what type of paint the original paint is. i.e. (Nitro-) cellulose which is a type of lacquer, or polyurethane are the most common two finishes on guitars. Cellulose dates from way back but is still used on mainly vintage true to tradition high end guitars today. Most common today is polyurethane because it's tough as nails, long lasting and gives a great finish. But, an absolute b**** to sand.
You'll need to sand to key the existing surface for the new paint regardless if there are surface imperfections or not, and undercoat with a neutral undercoat if you want a proper job.
Due to the different solvents used in the chemically different types of paints, the new paint you choose to use needs to be chemically compatible with the paint already on the guitar unless you choose to strip it back to wood. So you need to identify what the existing paint type is before choosing your new paint type -or strip/cut it back to wood.
[br]If you just cut the body back to a dull black surface, then you'll want to use a compatible undercoat if you're going for a light colour like Yellow. For the shade and hue your intended proprietary "TV Yellow" is, over black I'd undercoat with undercoat white for optimum result, although you could get away with grey. Those are the two common undercoat colours. I've not seen TV Yellow first hand, and the images online distort the hue. it appears a honey yellow in some and bright mid yellow in others. If it's bright use a white undercoat, for mid or honey, white or grey. Over black which has just been keyed but hasn't been undercoated, any light colour properly applied (light uniform coats) will likely require three coats minimum to achieve full opacity and shade uniformity.
[br]For initial cut, use 400 grade wet and dry or you'll be there all of the day and half the night. I'd strip rather than sand unless the body top surface is flat, or difficult as it is to use a sanding block on a curved surface, you'll likely end up with dents and ridges. 800 to prep level the surface for undercoating and 1000/1200 on the finish coats unless you make a fist of the job heavy application, runs, etc and have to cut them back. Finish of with a Crystal Clear gloss coat over the final colour coat,cut, polish and buff and it'll look a million bucks.
GL and remember that with spray painting the job result will only be as good as the prep, tools, materials, time and effort put in.
Hi Frank
I am going through a project myself and am no expert in painting. However, Jeff was good enough to share a link in my post you may find helpful.
Good luck, and it would be great if you would post some pics!
Thanks William. I will check this out and post pics for sure.
Originally Posted by: manXcat
Cutting back.
Depends what type of paint the original paint is. i.e. (Nitro-) cellulose which is a type of lacquer, or polyurethane are the most common two finishes on guitars. Cellulose dates from way back but is still used on mainly vintage true to tradition high end guitars today. Most common today is polyurethane because it's tough as nails, long lasting and gives a great finish. But, an absolute b**** to sand.
You'll need to sand to key the existing surface for the new paint regardless if there are surface imperfections or not, and undercoat with a neutral undercoat if you want a proper job.
Due to the different solvents used in the chemically different types of paints, the new paint you choose to use needs to be chemically compatible with the paint already on the guitar unless you choose to strip it back to wood. So you need to identify what the existing paint type is before choosing your new paint type -or strip/cut it back to wood.
[br]If you just cut the body back to a dull black surface, then you'll want to use a compatible undercoat if you're going for a light colour like Yellow. For the shade and hue your intended proprietary "TV Yellow" is, over black I'd undercoat with undercoat white for optimum result, although you could get away with grey. Those are the two common undercoat colours. I've not seen TV Yellow first hand, and the images online distort the hue. it appears a honey yellow in some and bright mid yellow in others. If it's bright use a white undercoat, for mid or honey, white or grey. Over black which has just been keyed but hasn't been undercoated, any light colour properly applied (light uniform coats) will likely require three coats minimum to achieve full opacity and shade uniformity.
[br]For initial cut, use 400 grade wet and dry or you'll be there all of the day and half the night. I'd strip rather than sand unless the body top surface is flat, or difficult as it is to use a sanding block on a curved surface, you'll likely end up with dents and ridges. 800 to prep level the surface for undercoating and 1000/1200 on the finish coats unless you make a fist of the job heavy application, runs, etc and have to cut them back. Finish of with a Crystal Clear gloss coat over the final colour coat,cut, polish and buff and it'll look a million bucks.
GL and remember that with spray painting the job result will only be as good as the prep, tools, materials, time and effort put in.
This is great information. Thank you so much!!
Phillip head screws should be holding pickups in place as well as back covers, truss rod cover, jack. These will likely be different sizes and you dont want too small a screwdriver head for the screw itself or you risk slippage and damaging them. Tuners probably have a phillips screw holding them from turning ( back of headset).
A small adjustable wrench is all that's required to remove the nuts securing the tuners and switch. But then your switch might have a knurled nut like this one. Pliers will do the job.
Volume, tone knobs can be carefully pryed with your fingers.
This year the diet is definitely gonna stick!
Originally Posted by: frankdemarianySilly question but what tools would I need to remove the hardware?
Not a silly question if you don't know. Smart to ask.
At a minimum, cross head screwdriver to fit to remove the myriad of woodscrews securing the strap buttons, pickguard, PUP retaining brackets, rear cover, string trees, truss rod cover & tuner mech locating arm screws - if your model has them, a small shifting spanner or open ended wrench of the correct size to fit the pot nuts, & pliars with wirecutters for removing the strings.
Can't confirm for sure what screwheads Gibson use as I don't have an American manufactured guitar, but probably (Philips Head) PH1 if made for the US market, especially if 20ish years old. Japanese/Asian guitar hardware today generally use (Posidrive) PZ1 head woodscrews unless made for the US market specifically. Using the wrong driver head risks burring the crosshead undoing it it's tight, or tightening if not being patient and careful or overtightening when putting them back in. You may also need a small hex head wrench of the appropriate size for the grub screws retaining the pot control knobs to remove them unless they are merely an interference fit. Similarily to back off the truss rod once you remove the neck for storage while you repaint.
No disrespect intended Frank, but armed with the apparent level of expertise needing to ask the questions you are asking, you would be doing yourself a huge favour and avoiding a lot of 'pain' in future by buying yourself copies of this and this and reading at least the first [u]before[/u] you start. A relative pittance compared to the time and effort involved in the refurb you're intending. No need of the former, I do have and have read the latter. Not the bible, but pragmatically comprehensive & unquestionably, worth the spend. Recommended.
GL. 
No disrespect intended Frank, but armed with the apparent level of expertise needing to ask the questions you are asking, you would be doing yourself a huge favour and avoiding a lot of 'pain' in future by buying yourself copies of this and this and reading at least the first [u]before[/u] you start. A relative pittance compared to the time and effort involved in the refurb you're intending. No need of the former, I do have and have read the latter. Not the bible, but pragmatically comprehensive & unquestionably, worth the spend. Recommended.
GL.
No disrespect taken at all. Your advice and more importantly detail is so appreciated. I will check out what you sent recommended for sure.
Thank you. I was traveling before but am now home. Here is a picture of the guitar so everyone can see. I forgot years ago my friend tried to do a poor attempt at drawing Joe Strummer on there. Not sure if that’s as issue when sanding?
Your image currently isn't displaying for me Frank - and presumably generally. Check your post's syntax and re-edit as necessary.
Perhaps not?
I managed to get an [u]inserted[/u] image to post earlier upon first insertion attempt subsequent to Frank's post, but not without the problem of its own I reported in your Xvive thread.
Are you inserting images (GT auto-links them, albeit 'not very well'-understatement, as you're aware) or linking to an alternate image URL webspace/site with those images?
I kept getting an error. Hopefully this works. If not, let me know how I can get everyone to see it.
Thanks!
No didn't work Frank.
I inserted an image yesterday from a local drive on a couple of occasions and the image upload worked and presented fine, other buggy issues with the forum app notwithstanding.
Are you selecting the insert image button and then selecting the location of the image you want to upload and appear, or are you trying to link one to a URL using the link button?
[br]Testing for you now. I am using Chrome on Win10 Pro x64 desktop.
Here (immediately below) is a example of an inserted image uploaded from my PC right now.
And here is a link to a different image, this one a link to one I only just uploaded Flickr's website especially for you. Click on this link to view my Flickr image
Confirming I can see both in the forum.
Were you able to see both?
So strange. Yes I am selecting the insert image button. I can see both of your pictures for sure.
I uploaded the image here: https://ibb.co/j87Ynvx
Let me know if this works!
Thanks!
It 'works' if I copy and past your URL in my browser.
It's [u]not[/u] presenting in the GT forum for you as a hotlink, although it does for me as you can see.
Originally Posted by: manXcatIt 'works' if I copy and past your URL in my browser.
It's [u]not[/u] presenting in the GT forum for you as a hotlink although it does for me as you can see.
Yes I noticed that it did not present me with that option.
What are you thoughts on the guitar?
Originally Posted by: frankdemarianyWhat are you thoughts on the guitar?
...I can see why you might want to repaint it. 🤔
Originally Posted by: manXcatOriginally Posted by: frankdemarianyWhat are you thoughts on the guitar?...I can see why you might want to repaint it. 🤔
LOL. I know it's a clunker. I am reallye excited with your awesome advice that I can make it into the image I have in my head.
